A full day in the sun yesterday makes sleeping in totally appropriate. Our feet tell us we need to learn the bus system today. There is a stop right across the bridge from our hotel. We decipher the bus maps, pick #26 and ride into town. The fee of 3:40 euro one way seems steep but we catch a ride into town anyway - totally worth it. It’s noonish so we decide to skip breakfast and move directly to lunch - that crowded burger joint we passed by the other night pops to mind. We retrace our steps and eventually find it. They are putting tables out in the street and hope with all our might that they are ready to serve food. We are really hungry and they are open - yeah! The burgers come exactly as imagined.
We follow the path along the beach past the carousel and find the signs for the aquarium. The quaint harbor is on our left so of course we stop to take pictures along the way. Once in the aquarium we are told to go to the second floor and follow the yellow arrows. We learn about the history of maritime trade in the region. There are many detailed models showing the different types of vessels and how they progressed through time. Then there are displays showing the many types of netting rigs that were used to catch fish. One section is devoted to the history of whaling in the region. In another section we learn that very year there is a historic rowing race held right here in San Sebastion. It is a big deal and is held in early September. We see specimens of different fish in jars donated by local science individuals. Monique makes a comment that this is different than the aquarium she had in mind. But when we enter the ground floor and finally see tanks with fish all is well. The tanks get bigger, the fish get bigger, and it culminates with a tubeyou can walk through to see the sharks, rays and other fish swimming overhead. Pretty nice ending. We complete the tour and walk out into the sunshine.
Our plan is to walk up Monte Urgull. At the top is the once-mighty castle Castillo de la Mota. This fort deterred attackers and allowed the city to prosper in the Middle Ages. At the top is a sculpture of Jesus who watches over the whole city. It can be seen anywhere in the city day or night. We stop for an ice cream to give us sugar energy in preparation for the assent. The museum at the top is closed on Mondays but we go anyway because the rest of the trails are open. We find the winding steep steps and work our way up. We are lucky that it has trees for shade along the way because you loose the nice ocean breeze and it is hot in the sun. We see umbrellas and hear music at what we think is the top. It turns out that it is just a landing with a small place selling water, and other things to the thirsty, out of shape travelers.
We stop to shoot pictures at the Napoleon ramparts which has a great view over the whole town. We continue on and go through a tunnel with stairs at the end. Then more and more steps and we finally arrive at the top. The fort and its cannons are all relatively in tact and It is here we get a good look at the statue of Christ. After exploring the fort we follow a path down to the British cemetery and with luck we locate the crumbling memorial to British soldiers who gave their lives to defend the city from Napoleon. It reminds us both of a scene in the movie, The Planet of the Apes. The memorial has not been maintained and nature is slowly turning it to rubble.
We decide to descend the hill opposite of where we started and by chance we discover the true Old Town with its narrow lanes, pensions, bars and shops right next to a couple of very large churches - the juxtaposition is really cool. An outdoor cafe is right at the base of the hill - right across from a busy children's playground. All the family's are enjoying themselves. This is were the locals go and the drinks are cheap. We also locate the surfer’s beach and decide we will return to this area tomorrow.
The bus is right there so we hop on - our feet agree it is worth every euro. It is Monday night so many restaurants are closed. We ask our hotel receptionist if she can recommend some place close by. The one that sounds the best to us is a hotel restaurant right across the bridge from where we are - we feel lazy. We go in and it turns out to be one of the best meals we have had to date. Dave has a cod fillet with asparagus that was cooked to perfection and Monique has the Basque special - pork cheeks. There are two on a bed of mashed potatos and we learn that they are a tender piece of meat. They are much larger than we imagined and Monique eats her fill and Dave finishes the job because it is too good to leave behind. We both slowly walk back across the bridge and retire for the night. San Sebastion has a great vibe and we are soaking it all in.
San Sebastian’s harbor is picturesque - this is the path you take to get to the aquarium.
It’s our sight-seeing day and first on the ticket is the aquarium. It is a nice mix of San Sebastian fishing history and really big fish tanks.
We prefer to see jelly fish in a tank - rather than in the sea - but alas, this is where they live.
The view from Napoleon’s rampart - the climb is worth the view.
Castillo de la Mota at the top of Monte Urgull. It is amazing how these old forts stand the test of time - this thing is solid.
The old town of San Sebastian has many narrow lanes just waiting to be explored.
We didn’t hold high hopes for dinner at a hotel - but man did they deliver. This was a really delicious meal - don’t you love when that happens!