On June 6, 1944, the largest military operation in history occurred on the beaches of Normandy, France — D-Day, or Jour J as it’s called in French. We jumped into our new mode of transport with iPad in hand (for Google maps and Rick Steves guide) and had a short drive to our first stop - Omaha Beach at Vierville-sur-Mer. This is the “American section” along the Atlantic coast north of Bayeux - our home base. It was difficult finding a parking spot, it’s really busy here. It looks like a very large summer beach spot with campers and families with their towels spread out playing in the sand and surf. The hills above the beach are not as high as we both imagined. The beach is very large and has no end as far as the eye can see. We discuss that the high ground is still the high ground and it is a long way from the water, across the beach to reach the hillside. It makes you think about 50,000 casualties along the 54 miles of coastline where this took place. History has more meaning when you see it person. We climb the cliff for a better perspective then come back down to make a rock tower tribute on the beach with all the others - contemplating the events that took place so many years ago.
We jump back into the car and drive along the coast through the very narrow and winding French roads weaving through many small towns - some people’s front doors are 18-24 inches away from the road - you must pay attention! The next history lesson is at the WWII Normandy American Cemetery and Memorial. We park and go into the visitor center. The security is tight. You enter one at a time, surrender your bags for scanning and then pass through a metal detector. Once inside there are information panels highlighting people and their courageous deeds. The messages are poignant - real people sacrificed their lives for our freedom. Many visitors are French, because they really appreciate the sacrifice the Americans and other Allies made for France. We didn't really understand how important that was for them and learned that the world would be very different if all of this didn't occur. Seeing the number of headstone crosses, reading the names and ages of the dead - with all 50 states represented - makes the war very real.
Back into the car. Next stop the Longues-sur-Mer Gun Battery - the only original coastal artillery guns remaining in place in the D-Day region. This battery was a critical link in Hitler’s Atlantic Wall Defense. The guns could hit targets up to 12 miles away with accuracy if linked to good target information provided by the soldiers in the clostrofobic observation bunker. The buildings which house the guns are made of thick cement for protection and on the outside you can see bullet holes three or four inches deep where they were fired upon.
Final stop for the day is the town of Arromanches. This small town was an important part of the British landing zone (Gold Beach). The Allies determined it would be easier to build their own port than to try to take one from the Nazis. Almost overnight, Arromanches turned into an immense harbor called Port Winston (for Winston Churchill). Within just six days of operation, 54,000 vehicles, 326,000 troops, and 110,000 tons of goods crossed the English Channel and were unloaded here. Again, being here makes history come alive. We imagine what it must have looked like seeing the immense operation coming ashore right here in this small town, amazing.
A short dive back to our small town and another great sight-seeing day under our belt. Food and sleep is the only thing on our mind.
Omaha Beach where so many sacrificed their lives for our freedom. The beauty of nature triumphs over the evils of human-kind.
Amazing sculpture unveiled in 2014 in the presence of veterans.
This 70-hectare site was granted for life by France to the United States. It shelters the bodies of the Americans soldiers who died during the D-Day Landings and the Battle of Normandy. The graves are shaped into latin crosses for Christian soldiers and stars of David for Jewish soldiers.
Passing down the history to the next generation.
The memorial area at the cemetery.
Installed at the centre of the memorial, a 7-meter-high bronze statue symbolizes the spirit of the American youth rising from the waves.
Longues Sur Mer was part of Hitler’s Atlantic Wall. Each of the four navy guns were protected by huge concrete casemates. The site of the battery also included a command post, several defensive machine gun posts and accommodation for the soldiers.
The night before and on D-Day itself, this battery was subjected to heavy air and naval bombardments. Three of the four guns were silenced on June 6th; however, one remained firing until late into the evening, being captured the following day by the 231st Infantry.
You can still see the remnants of the man-made harbor. The port was meant to be temporary, lasting maybe three months. It served for some five months. The Arromanches Mulberry Harbour became known as Port Winston, after British wartime leader Winston Churchill, who was closely involved in its conception. A staggering 2.5 million men, 500,000 vehicles and 4 million tonnes of supplies arrived via Port Winston.