We decided the night before that noon was our target start time for the next day's tour. We were in need of a little extra sleep and Monique had some work to complete. Breakfast is a home-made peanut butter and jelly sandwich and a cup of tea. Simple but good.
Today we are visiting Chateau’s Chambord and Cheverny. Chambord is the largest castle in the Loire. It has 440 rooms and a fireplace for every day of the year. The chateau is laid out as a keep in the shape of a Greek cross, with four towers and two wings. The double-helix staircase in the center is massive and delivers you to each floor. We arrive, find parking and walk to the castle. Its size immediately overwhelms your senses. There is a group of cafe's on the property so we decide to grab a quick bite before we begin. We sit down at the first one we see. They have a chicken burger special so we order two, thinking it should be faster, being the "plat du jour." The time continuum slows down - we wait and wait and wait. A little girl is eyeing me was we both wonder if they really have food here. The food finally shows up and it is not very good. We need fuel so we eat it anyway. We pay and as we walk away we see that other cafe's have better looking sandwiches and they even have take-away. We should have looked a little more before choosing - live and learn.
The castle is amazing in size and splendor, but it is very crowded. Each room you go in there are twenty people trying to take a picture. We follow the audio tour and learn that in 1519 Francois I began the construction. He dies in 1547 and his son Henry II is enthroned and continues the construction. In 1626 Gaston, the Duke of Orleans is granted possession. When he dies in 1660 it returns to the crown. The First sojourn of Louis XIV continues construction. In 1682 the castle is nearly complete. It changes hands three more times and in 1930 the French state acquires the domain. Buildings like this take a long, long time to build.
The best spot was the top of the staircase. It is called the summit of the donjon and it provides terraces and promenade space with panoramic views of the grounds. You are also immersed in the chimney stacks, dormer windows and turrets. We reached our limit and make a run for the car.
Our next stop is Chateau Cheverny - the inspiration for Marlinspike Hall the home of cartoon character Tintin’s friend Captain Haddock. We have seen the place on TV where the trainer feeds the almost one hundred French hounds at once. Our digital guide says the feeding happens at five. We rush to get there and find the smelly hounds but no feeding occurs. We wait, watching the hounds for about ten minutes, ask around, but no one knows. We only have one hour to see the castle before closing time so we abandon the hounds and head for the chateau. Not sure if the feeding ever happened - maybe it was daylight savings and they eat at four?
This is a hunting palace. It is one of the more lavishly furnished Loire chateaus and was built in a short amount of time, from 1604 to 1634 - replacing a primitive fortress built in 1500. This chateau has been in the Hurault family for over six centuries. There were several other owners. In the sixteen century Diane de Poitiers bought it after being ousted from Chenonceau by Catherine de Medici. Then in 1825 Anne-Victor Hurault, Marquis of Vibraye, bought the castle returning it to the original owners. The viscount and his family still live on the third floor. How would you like to wake up in the morning and realize you live in a place like this - mind blowing.
Back in Amboise, we had dinner at an Italian place we spied the day before. We sat next to a French couple - they were just served their dinner. Dave asked the gentleman what he ordered - spaghetti bolognese - that’s what we want - it wasn’t on the menus we were given. We learned they were here to get away from their stressful working lives and suggested we see Chateau Chenonceau. He pulls it up on his phone - yes, we saw this on TV - we do want to go there. About 10 minutes passed by and we still weren’t getting waited on although other people were. Our new friends said something to the waitress and the service was attentive after that - merci.
One of the crowning achievements of French Renaissance architecture, Chateau de Chambord is by far the largest, grandest and most visited chateau in the Loire Valley. Begun in 1519 by François I as a weekend hunting lodge, it quickly grew into one of the most ambitious – and expensive – architectural projects ever attempted by a French monarch.
Just gaze upon a veritable skyline of cupolas, domes, turrets, chimneys and lightning rods.
In the center of the structure is the world-famous double-helix staircase – reputedly designed by Leonardo da Vinci. Magically, two people can ascend in sight of one another but without ever meeting.
Louis XIV's redecorated bedchamber, the grandest quarters in the chateau.
Henri of Artois, Count of Chambord was eager to become the new king of France. He had his coronation robes made along with all the other regalia needed for the crowning of a monarch - including his throne. Sadly he never became the King of France and became known as the pretender to the throne of France.
This is the lantern tower at the top of the double-helix staircase. It is here where you can access the rooftop - it’s so beautiful.
American-born author Henry James wrote, "This roof, which is in itself a sort of castle in the air, has an extravagant, fabulous quality, and with its profuse ornamentation, the salamander of Francis I is a constant motive, its lonely pavements, its sunny niches, the balcony that looks down over the closed and grass-grown main entrance, a strange, half-sad, half brilliant charm."
The hounds of Cheverny. More than a hundred tricolor anglo-french dogs live here.
Cheverny represents the zenith of French classical architecture: the perfect blend of symmetry, geometry and aesthetic order. The center section looks just like Marlinspike Hall from the adventures of Tintin.
The Grand Salon: The woman above the fireplace is a portrait of Marie Johanne de la Carre Summery, Contesse de Cheverny, painted by Mignard, artist to Queen Ann of Austria. The harp is 17th century and in perfect working order - what!
This small chest of drawers was made by Riesner, cabinet maker to Kings Louis XV and Louis XVI.
The fireplace in the Arms Room - the largest room in the chateau. This painting is attributed to Jean Monier and is about the death of Adonis.
A more intimate room showcasing some of the tableware housed within the castle.
A view of the rear of the castle and a bit of the gardens. The symmetry is carried out in the gardens as well.