After a thirty minute drive through narrow lanes and many roundabouts we arrive at Chateau Usse. This is a quick drive by to take a picture from the bridge. Chateau Usse was the inspiration for Charles Perrault’s classic version of the Sleeping Beauty story. Our guide, "Rick Steves" says the interior is not worth the eighteen euro per person tariff. We agree, most charge twelve euros or less.
Back in the car, more winding roads with blind curves, an assortment of roundabouts, new things like "chicanes" with right of way signs and don't forget the doors to people’s homes open right on the road. You need to pay attention here and you also need google maps to find these remote places in the French countryside. We both agree we like having a car, without it none of this would be possible.
We pull into Chateau d’Azay-le-Rideau, a 16th-century chateau on an island in the Indre River. It is undergoing major roof and exterior restoration so half the castle was in scaffolding. Regardless, the inside was worth a look. This chateau is an example of the early Renaissance style. The chateau was built between 1518 and 1527 by a very rich banker—Gilles Berthelot, treasurer to the king of France. At that time the wealthy lived in luxury and defensive elements to the building were not required. The French elite looked to the Italians for inspiration. Its grand staircases and elegant loggias are proof of that Italian influence. Before we leave, we walk into the town for a take-away sandwich, we need something fast - we have a schedule to keep. Monique has chicken on a baggette and I find tuna salad. We stumble on a gourmet wine shop and purchase two wines from the Chinon area (one the bottles has AOC on it which means it is part of the local cooperative).
More winding through the countryside and we arrive at Langeais. It occupies a key site on the Loire River, 15 miles downstream from Tours. This location made Langeais a player in many historic events. It was here in 1491 that King Charles VIII secretly wed 14-year-old Anne (duchess of Brittany), a union that brought Brittany into France’s fold. The only part of the original castle is the thousand-year-old tower standing across from the castle’s garden. During the Hundred Years' War it was an English stronghold, so the French king destroyed it. What we are viewing is a “new” castle, built in the 15th century. The imposing walls and drawbridge were mostly for show. Cannons from this time could easily make quick work of these fortifications. Its architecture is part medieval and part Renaissance. It does a good job at giving the visitors a feel for royal life in the 15th century. Due to the fact that owners seldom stayed in one place for very long, everything was ready to pack and move. There are trunks for packing, chairs that fold and table tops resting on the bases without attachment.
Now for the pièce de résistance, Villandry. Completed in 1536, Villandry was the last great Renaissance chateau built on the Loire. It’s famous for its extensive gardens with elaborate geometric patterns and immaculately maintained grounds. It is the best in the Loire Valley, and possibly all of France. The 10-acre Renaissance garden is inspired by a 1530s Italian-style original. When we arrive, our digital guide told us to bring bread to feed the carp in the moat. He was spot on, some pretty large fish came to the surface. We shared our bread with two French kids and all had a laugh. The tour of the interior is good but climbing to the roof top to view the gardens was priceless. It was a cloudy day, so we waited on the roof for clouds to pass to get good pictures - what a burden.
We walk slowly out to the car. The last leg of the day is a forty minute drive to Amboise where we are staying. We check in and hope for good internet - unfortunately not so. There is a note on the desk in our room that says there is a 45 euro fine if you are caught eating in your room. We visit the grocery store for Mr Lee's Ramon noodles to be cooked in the room from the hot water coffee pot. We have chips and other snacks as planned but make sure we don't leave any trace behind. This was a new one neither of us have heard of. As we settle in, the fire alarm sounds and we decide to evacuate to the lobby. False alarm. It sounds one more time fifteen minutes later, which we ignore. We think fondly of the hotel in Chinon that we left. We will make the best of it, it is only two nights.
The exterior of Chateau Usse. It’s amazing - I cannot even imagine living in a place like this.
Chateau d’Azay-le-Rideau - a reduced rate because of all the restoration work occurring.
The Renaissance chamber was the bedroom of Philippe Lesbahy, wife of Gilles Berthelot. During the Renaissance, the château walls were covered with tapestries or rush matting, which insulated the rooms from the cold. This insulation method was thought to have therapeutic value - the smell of the reeds was supposed to expel bad moods and cleanse the air.
Portrait of Francis I. He gave this chateau the ultimate compliment - he seized it, the owners had to flee, then in 1537 he gave it to his companion-in-arms, Antoine Raffin, where Raffin’s descendants lived until the 18th century. Francis was a patron of the arts and kicked off the French Renaissance. He patronized many great artists of his time, including Leonardo da Vinci, whom was persuaded to make France his home during his last years. Da Vinci brought with him many of his greatest works, including the Mona Lisa (known in France as La Joconde), and these remained in France after his death.
THE BIENCOURT SALON: This room has been restored to its 19th century state when the castle was owned by the Marquis of Biencourt. Thanks to the considerable fortune of his wife, the Marquis made the Château d'Azay-le-Rideau a popular place for its architecture and gardens but also for its collections, a veritable private museum open to visitors from the middle of the century.
The Château of Langeais has two different facades - feudal on the town side and Renaissance-inspired on the courtyard side This is the town side - I like the working drawbridge.
The Insignia Room: Anne of Brittany’s motto, “Potius mori quam foedari” (meaning “Death rather than dishonour”), can be read on the walls of this room. Her emblem, the ermine tail, can be seen in the ornamental tiling, alongside that of Charles VIII, the fleur-de-lis… Highlighted in this room are the portraits of King Charles VIII and Anne (duchess of Brittany).
Portraits of Charles VIII of France and Anne of Brittany took place, at dawn on December 6, 1491.
This is one of 4 tapestries illustrating a deer hunt. Although a bit gory, the retention of color is amazing for a tapestry created in the late 15th century.
On the courtyard side, the façade corresponds to what a king or a lord would have wanted from his residence: a pleasant place to live, opening to the outside through beautiful windows. Construction lasted two years. The work had been entrusted to Jean Bourré, the king’s faithful advisor, and to Jean Briçonnet, also close to the king and, at the time, mayor of Tours. In July 1466, Louis XI ceded the château to his cousin, Dunois, the son of Joan of Arc’s companion.
The Magnificent Villandry - built around 1536 it is the last of the great Chateau’s built along the banks of the Loire. The three buildings that surround the main courtyard form a horseshoe opening onto the valley. To break up the monotony of the symmetry, sense of proportion and uniformity so beloved in the Renaissance style, the architect of Chateau de Villandry introduced some subtle differences: the wings are not exactly the same length, the alignment of the central windows is slightly off-center, etc.
In the drawing room and study, the 18th century furniture is covered with Touraine silk that is still manufactured today. This is where Joachim Carvallo drew up the plans for cultivating the Kitchen Garden, among other things.
Prince Jérôme’s bedroom: Under the First Empire, the Château de Villandry briefly belonged to Napoleon I’s youngest brother, Prince Jérôme. This episode in the château’s history is recollected by this bedroom with its mahogany furniture, shot red silks, and draperies.
A close-up of one of the 9 Renaissance kitchen gardens. The 9 gardens are equal in size but with different geometric patterns in each. They are planted with flowers and vegetables used for the kitchens in the Chateau.
In 1906, Joachim Carvallo bought Villandry and restored the castle and gardens back to their Renaissance glory. The 9 kitchen gardens are a feast for the eyes - and stomachs. In 2009 the gardens became organic, using no pesticides.
Here we are at the top of the Ornamental & Love gardens.
There are 4 squares that make up the love gardens; Tender Love, Passionate Love, Flighty Love and Tragic Love.
This is a great view of the rear of the castle. You are able to go up to the rooftop in the round tower you see in the corner - the best vantage point to view all of the different the gardens from there.